The TAPCO G2 Double Hook AK-47 Trigger is probably one of the best upgrades you can make to your AK-47. Combat rifles such as the AK have notoriously sloppy triggers that require upwards of 10 lbs of trigger-pull. To make matters worse, many of the Com-Block semi-automatic rifles imported here have a hump on the back of the disconnector that creates the horrible trigger slap of many of these imports.
This guide walks you through the process of installing the G2 Double Hook AK-47 on a Romanian SAR-1 rifle. While the particulars of this install pertain to the Romanian SAR-1, they also apply to most other AK-47 semi-automatic imports, including most Yugoslavian models and Saigas chambered in 7.62×39. This particular trigger set should also fit both stamped and milled receivers. That being said: gunsmithing is required. We do not recommend that any of the procedures described here be performed by anyone but a qualified gunsmith.
The first step is to disassemble your AK according to TAPCO’s Instruction Manual. Always unload and clear any firearm completely before beginning to disassemble it.
With your disassembled rifle, lets compare the individual components to check for areas that may need filing or grinding for proper fitment. First, lets take a look at the trigger itself. Here, we compare the Century Arms trigger as installed on a Romanian SAR-1. Note that on the TAPCO the rear of the trigger has much more material than the Century trigger. It should also be noted that the TAPCO trigger uses a larger pivot hole that requires a bushing (included in the TAPCO kit) to slide over the pin.
The disconnector that is used on the Century trigger group has much more material on the rear of the part. Why Century decided to cast the part in this way is beyond us, but the result is horrible trigger slap. The TAPCO disconnector uses the traditional Com-block design and does not have the additional hump of metal.
Our Romanian SAR-1 has a single hook trigger design. Because of this, the receiver only has one notch for the trigger hook. We took a Dremel rotary tool and a medium stone to grind out a matching notch on the other side of the trigger slot. Be careful while grinding, go slowly, and don’t apply very much pressure – let the stone do the work for you. In this photo you can see that our stone slipped out of the notch and marred the finish a bit. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a bit more care while grinding could have prevented this.
After test fitting our trigger in the modified slot, we noticed some flashing left over from the mold in which the trigger was cast was interfering with the operation of the trigger. We ground this bit of metal off the front and the back of the trigger, taking a little bit at a time and test fitting in between grinds until it was just right.
At this point we reassembled the rifle to dry fire it and cycle the action a few times to check it for functionality and reliability. One problem quickly arose: the trigger would stick after being pulled and would not reset. A closer inspection revealed that the hooks were sticking in the notches. It wasn’t that the notches weren’t long enough, but it seemed that the hooks were grabbing on the sides of the trigger slot, like it wasn’t quite wide enough. So, we disassembled the rifle again and broke out the dremel one more time to take off just a tiny amount of material from the sides of the trigger slot.
After reassembling the rifle one last time, everything worked flawlessly. Instead of a creeping heavy combat trigger, we had a crisp clean trigger with very little creep. The action cycled well, and range testing showed that the rifle was just as reliable, and a whole lot more accurate.The mission of Cheaper Than Dirt!’s blog, “The Shooter’s Log,” is to provide information—not opinions—to our customers and the shooting community. We want you, our readers, to be able to make informed decisions. The information provided here does not represent the views of Cheaper Than Dirt!