May 23, 2013

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Related Topics: Hunting Rifles    

Varmint rifles are popular; there’s no denying that. More shooters are taking to hunting everything from prairie dogs to coyote. Spending your off hours ridding someone’s land of vermin is usually a welcome pastime that landowners don’t always have time to do. Varmints are a destructive, invasive and generally unwanted group of pests most people would rather live without. So what’s the best tool for the job? It really depends on what you’re planning to eradicate.

AR Varmint Hunting

AR Varmint Hunting

The standard varmint rifle fills a gap between small .22 LR rimfire rifles and larger deer calibers. It is a sort of sweet spot where you get decent range, accuracy and flat trajectory all in one package. Ideally, a varmint rifle will have a few characteristics that set it apart from a smaller hunting rifle. Heavy barrels are a common inclusion. They allow for more accurate follow-up shots since they take longer to heat up. Often, varmint hunters utilize a fixed position and use more ammunition than hunters who stalk their prey.

Another useful addition is a magnified scope. Varmint hunters frequently face the difficult task of hitting small, fast-moving targets. Manufacturers generally I am include free-floating barrels to increase accuracy as well. As far as actions go, most varmint rifles are bolt guns. However, the semi-automatic AR trend seeped well into the world of varmint hunting in recent years. Specialized AR varmint rifles are commonplace and some argue they fill their respective roles better than their bolt-action counterparts do.

Since accuracy is the most desired feature, the calibers chosen usually offer a flatter trajectory. This means the projectiles need to be small and fast. A lightweight bullet traveling very fast means that hunters won’t have to adjust their shots as much for bullet drop. Ammunition manufacturers often design the bullet to disintegrate on impact. This means all the energy from the round transfers into the animal, rather than traveling straight through. This creates a cleaner kill and less chance of wounding the critter in question.

The most popular calibers for varmints are usually part of three separate groups, beginning with the smaller, quieter calibers. They’re perfect for shooting vermin at closer range in more populated areas. Common choices are the .17 HMR, .22 WMR, .22 Hornet and .218 Bee. Inside of 185 yards, they get the job done perfectly.

Remington 700 SPS in .243

Remington 700 SPS in .243

At medium ranges, a little more beef is necessary. The .222 Remington is a nice choice and performs very close to the more popular .223 Remington. Both cartridges are solid choices and if I was only able to own one rifle, it would probably be a .223 Remington. A decent scope on a .223 bolt-action is one hugely useful tool.

For those shooters who are trying to stretch it out to the next county over, the .22-250 is an amazing piece of hardware. In my personal experience, .22-250 rifles perform extremely well for varmint hunting, offering a nice balance of power and accuracy. Other options include the .220 Swift, .223 WSSM, .243 Winchester and the 6mm Remington. Some of these rifles share the distinction of being useful deer and hog cartridges as well. In particular, the .243 Winchester has a long-standing reputation as a useful all-around cartridge for anything up to large hogs.

Serious varmint hunters have to use their specialized tools to make extremely accurate shots at great distances—often while the target is on the move. This means the shooting skills required to be successful are greater than some other forms of hunting. Choosing the proper rifle will help, but it takes a lot of practice to be a proficient varmint exterminator. Check out our varmint rifles and see if one fits you. Those pesky critters won’t stand a chance.

What’s your favorite varmint rifle and caliber? Tell us in the comment section.

 

Like this article? CLICK HERE to get stories like this, useful tips, and valuable resources every other weekend in your e-mail inbox.

The mission of Cheaper Than Dirt!’s blog, “The Shooter’s Log,” is to provide information—not opinions—to our customers and the shooting community. We want you, our readers, to be able to make informed decisions. The information provided here does not represent the views of Cheaper Than Dirt!

May 21, 2013

During your preseason scouting this year try something new. Grab five or even 10 $20 bills and hang them on a local tree with a nail or bungee cord. Then, come back in a few days, and see which type of bucks you find—brown or green. It sounds crazy right? Yet that is exactly what thousands of hunters do each year when they strap a trail camera to tree with a simple tie down or bungee cord and walk away. We are all guilty and have felt that sick feeling when we went to check our camera and hoped it would still be there.

Game Camera Attachment

Attachment loops such as this may help, but will hardly keep your investment safe.

Manufacturers realized this problem some time ago and provided a handy hole for a padlock. This will deter many hunters and hikers as very few hike with bolt cutters. However, once discovered, there is little to keep them from coming back. This problem has been compounded with cheaper models and the shrinking size of the units. There is simply less room for a lock hole and less material to surround it.

The solution to protect your investment is to purchase a security lock box or add on security bracket. Several manufacturers make proprietary models to fit their cameras, but third party options will do just as well or better in some cases. I would have to agree with most reading this and shaking their heads right now. It is unlikely that someone would be on your hunting property, and even if so, would they see the camera and decide to steal it? While I agree with that, I’ll go back to my beginning challenge. Would you tack $200 to tree and walk away from it for a week or two without worrying?

Stealth Cam Bear Box

Wildview’s Security Bear Box encases your camera in 10 gauge powder coated steel and features multiple mounting options including a direct bolt mount to tree, strap slots and Python security cable compatible slots.

If your answer was no, read on. Before heading out this spring, collect your cameras and see which ones have a security hole and note the size. Next, check to see if the manufacturer offers a security bracket that fits your specific model of game camera.

The remedy does not have to cost much. Masterlock’s Python cable does a fine job, but other commercial solutions costing less than $10 will also do the trick. The box-type holders can also protect your investment from four-legged vandals. I have seen cameras that have been torn apart and left on the ground. Once the card was retrieved, raccoon pictures identified the culprit others showed something a lot bigger.

Pictures of a buck or bull elk are the reason most of us place a camera on a tree in the first place. However, if your camera happens to be unluckily placed on the tree a big bull decides to rough up… well you get the idea—and a cable will hardly protect your camera under a scenario such as that.

Theft will always be a problem, and there simply isn’t a usable camera option that couldn’t be stolen or damaged. However, a few extra dollars spent on a security box or locking bracket is your best option to ensure your camera and pictures will be safely attached to the tree when you return to retrieve your camera. Don’t be a victim… plan ahead and protect your investment.

 

Like this article? CLICK HERE to get stories like this, useful tips, and valuable resources every other weekend in your e-mail inbox.

The mission of Cheaper Than Dirt!’s blog, “The Shooter’s Log,” is to provide information—not opinions—to our customers and the shooting community. We want you, our readers, to be able to make informed decisions. The information provided here does not represent the views of Cheaper Than Dirt!

May 18, 2013

How to Make a Portable Heat Source

Let’s say you are tent camping in the pouring rain, and you are soaked to the skin. Your commonsense tells you to make a fire quickly, but every available stick and kindling you find is equally soaked. What would you do? Not a fun situation to find yourself in, especially if the temperature begins to fall. If you are not careful hypothermia can set in quickly, so it goes without saying, making a fire as fast as possible is vital to your well-being.

DIY Furnace

Ingredients: Coffee can, matches, toilet paper and isopropyl alcohol.

Hopefully, you will never find yourself in this circumstance or countless other scenarios where you need to make a fire fast. However, if you do, here is one speedy way to craft a small portable long burning heat source. An added bonus is it also provides plenty of light, it’s cheap, and super easy to make. You could even cook over it if needed. However the best part about this little device is you do not need any wood or kindling to get this fire burning, and keep it burning, making it ideal in many situations. All you need is four household items. All are readily available, inexpensive and relatively lightweight, making them ideal to carry on a camping trip, or to store in your vehicles emergency kit.

Items Needed

Store Your Ignition Source

You’ll need a handy ignition source. Strike anywhere matches are quick and easily stored.

You will need a medium-sized metal coffee can with plastic lid, one regular-sized roll of toilet paper; the quality multi-ply seems to work better than the generic single ply paper-thin variety. One or more bottles of isopropyl alcohol also referred to as rubbing alcohol. Finally, you will need matches or a lighter to light your homemade heater. I keep a stash of strike-anywhere matches in a plastic baggy tucked into the center tube of the roll of paper.

Easy Assembly

Start by placing the roll of toilet paper into the metal coffee can—ideally the roll will fit perfectly into the canister. Second, pour the entire bottle of alcohol over the toilet paper let it soak in completely. The final step is to light the alcohol-drenched toilet paper and let it burn.

Completed DIY emergency furnace

One bottle of alcohol can burn for hours providing you with emergency heat, light or as an emergency signal.

A 16 oz. bottle of alcohol can burn for several hours. If you need more burn time, wait until the flame goes out completely or suffocate the low flame with the lid. Turn the toilet paper over, slip it back into the can and saturate the same roll with another bottle of alcohol. This process can be repeated numerous times, as long as you keep the paper wet with alcohol—a good reason to carry a few bottles of alcohol with you.

As with any flammable liquid, do NOT pour any alcohol on an open flame, wait until the fire goes out completely before you add more alcohol. Be extremely cautious when handling as the can maybe hot to the touch. Flames may go above the top of the can, especially if it is windy, so be sure to place your homemade furnace away from flammable items such as clothing and place furnace on a safe surface while burning.

When you need a fire in a hurry, this quick and cheap furnace provides a heat source ideal in emergency situations and works well for an extended period of time in smaller spaces.

How would you use your homemade furnace? Tell us in the comment section.

 

Like this article? CLICK HERE to get stories like this, useful tips, and valuable resources every other weekend in your e-mail inbox.

The mission of Cheaper Than Dirt!’s blog, “The Shooter’s Log,” is to provide information—not opinions—to our customers and the shooting community. We want you, our readers, to be able to make informed decisions. The information provided here does not represent the views of Cheaper Than Dirt!

April 30, 2013

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Related Topics: Deer How To Hunting    

After a through and exhaustive search, I am here to declare once and for all that hunting whitetails is hard. While that may be surprising to some—the ones lucky enough to walk out their first time with a bow or gun and a shiny new hunter education card and wallop a monster—to many it is knowledge earned after exhaustive hours in the field.

And would you really want it to be easy? If everyone went out and shot a Booner their first day, how much fun would it be? (Although after 20-plus years, I think I should have earned at least one gimme.) After all, it is the allure of harvesting something rare and unique, a trophy like no other, that keeps our blood boiling and separates the hunters from those who merely hike with weapons in the whitetail woods.

Illinois Whitetail Buck on Public Land

Harvesting a 150-class buck is never easy, particularly when it comes from public land as this one did. However, you can increase the size of the average buck on ground you control with a proper management plan and a few supplements.

Accepting the challenge is certainly different from not doing everything possible to increase your odds. At the very least, you’ll want to do everything you can to maximize the size of the trophy. Either way, the challenge is the same, but what if the same animal were say 10 to 15 percent larger… Ten to 15 percent is quite a claim and has raised more than one eyebrow in the past and for good reason. Miracle claims from products that have disappointed more often than not bombard us. I have seen deer walk past salt licks, and what I thought was a fine four-course meal (for a deer). However, I have also seen the crater left behind where a mineral block used to reside with a freeway-sized path of hoof prints leading to it from every direction.

Mineral supplements are no different. The formulas have been proven to work on penned deer under controlled conditions. However, we do not hunt penned deer nor under controlled conditions. So, what is the effect on a herd of deer in the wild? The exact same, but much more dispersed. I am sure you have heard the claims that you will be contributing the health of the entire herd not just a particular deer, which is true but begs the question of how much good are you doing for the investment. Now, to be clear, that does not mean tossing out a bag of minerals now and then will inoculate your local herd like magic beans and make them suddenly bigger.

Deer co Cain Mineral Block

Bucks will want to protect the Deer co-Cain site by rubbing, scraping and rolling in the mineral site to mark it as their own. The buck’s action will naturally lead to the attraction of more deer. Over time, a large deer wallow will be created as many deer develop the habit of frequenting the site to consume the beneficial minerals.

It is more like, well, supplements…vitamins, a boost to compensate for something they may be missing in a particular area. This means a little work on your part. Step one is to check the laws in your area of course. Mineral supplements concentrate deer in a particular area. This may be harmful to herds suffering from Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) or other diseases spread by the use of a common area. It can also be illegal for other reasons, primarily baiting during certain times of the year.

However, that is the exception not the rule. In most areas, it is perfectly legal to supplement with a few groceries—at least up until a specified period before the hunting season. In other areas, they call it something more creative. One state I hunted, it was illegal to feed the deer, but you could plant milo for the quail. The craziest thing happened though; the deer seemed to enjoy dining on the quail’s milo more than the quail did. Not that I would recommend milo as a strategy, however check with your local game and fish department. Many will offer creative solutions, approved by the state wildlife agency and without running afoul of any laws.

Mineral supplements provide vitamins such as A, D3 and E; minerals such as calcium, phosphorous and salt, most importantly a strong supply of needed micro minerals such as copper, iodine, zinc and selenium. Topping it all off is the secret ingredient. It’s not really a secret, it’s artificial flavoring. The stuff that makes it taste good.

That’s the secret to getting the deer close, it is also the reason you’ll need to do some homework. Not all deer crave the same food. Some flavors will mimic foods naturally found in your area; others may provide something the deer can only get from you. The thing to do is buy a few small quantities of different brands or flavors. Place each in a different area and monitor it with a quality trail camera. Because deer typically feed at night, you’ll want to pay particular attention to the cameras with a good IR sensor.

Primos Red Spot

Be a savvy shopper. Some products are attractants while others are supplements. In the case of a few, you can get both in one package.

After that, all you need to do is sit back and see what critters are roaming your area. This provides a great opportunity to catalog your local bucks, determine travel routes and train the deer to use the ground you want them to use. Best of all, you will actually be lending a hand at improving the health of the herd and in time assisting the antler production local bucks. Once you determine the preferred vitals for the buck or bucks in your area, exploit it and you may well have the opportunity to offer the buck a ride in the back of truck later in the season.

Which brings us back to the original question, “Are mineral supplement worth the investment?” That is a very personal question. You can increase antler size. Science has proven that. Does should be dropping fawns anytime now, and like any momma after birth, they need to replace many nutrients and provide high quality milk that increase the fawns’ odds of survival. Mineral supplements can do that. What mineral supplements cannot do is substantially grow the bucks in your area beyond the genetics. Illinois may have a lot of behemoths running around, but let’s face it, after a few bags of minerals, you are not going to suddenly start seeing a bunch 200-inch class bucks in Alabama. I have talked to ranch and game managers in Alabama, Illinois, Texas, Colorado and many other states. Supplemental feed and minerals have proven to work in all of them with increased overall antler production, but you’ll have to put in the work and now is the time to start deploying the minerals, long before the start of the hunting season.

How about you? What have your experiences been with supplements? Any favorite brands or blends? Let us know in the comment section.

 

Like this article? CLICK HERE to get stories like this, useful tips, and valuable resources every other weekend in your e-mail inbox.

The mission of Cheaper Than Dirt!’s blog, “The Shooter’s Log,” is to provide information—not opinions—to our customers and the shooting community. We want you, our readers, to be able to make informed decisions. The information provided here does not represent the views of Cheaper Than Dirt!

April 23, 2013

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Related Topics: General How To Hunting Turkey    
Rio-Grande-turkey

Anytime you score a double is a perfect opportunity to save one to mount and one to use for something more creative such as calls, jewelry or decoys.

Besides a good meal, turkey legs, spurs, beard and feathers are trophies worthy of preservation. Best of all, they are every bit as beautiful as a trophy buck, but won’t take up as much space on the wall. You can also care for the trophy yourself instead of paying big bucks to a taxidermist because turkeys—overall—are easy to preserve, but some parts are easier than others. Let’s look at beards, legs, spurs and wings. I will address tails, which are a bit more involved, in a separate post.

Beards

When removing the beard, you always want to cut it off making sure to leave a small bit of skin at the base. This will hold it together and give you some material to work with when attaching it to a display. However, prior to allowing the skin to dry or attaching the beard, coat the skin with a preservative such as borax. Once you complete that step, presto! Your beard is done and ready for mounting.

Legs and Spurs

The legs are almost as easy as the beard. Start by cutting the leg just below the feathers. You’ll need to inject some type of liquid preservative (formaldehyde for instance) into the feet and in a couple of places along the leg. Next, you’ll need to manipulate the toes into position and secure them to a piece of stiff cardboard or foam with pins and let dry.

Turkey Spurs

A fine set of limbhangers such as these are perfect for a plaque, bookends or on a necklace.

I prefer to freeze-dry the legs. All you have to do is place the legs in the freezer (uncovered) for a few weeks. If you do not a have a dedicated freezer, or an overly understanding spouse, you can also allow the legs to dry in a cool, dehumidified environment. An air-conditioned room will normally get the job done.

Once dry, paint the legs with clear non-glossy shellac or something similar. As a quick tip… coat the cut end with a persistent roach poison to keep the pests away. Depending on your personal preference and type of mount, you can also cut the leg a little above the spur. To do this, remove the skin from the bone around the spur and clean out the hollow bone. You can leave the leg scales on or remove them. It is a matter of personal preference.

Wings

Whether your turkey has sparkling white tips or creamy brown, the color features are the turkey’s calling card. It also makes for interesting conversation when you harvest multiple species or hybrids.

Cut the wing close to the breast, leaving some of the shoulder feathers attached. Don’t worry if there is a little extra skin; you can remove it at a later time. Make your cuts from the underside of the wing. Because you will display the back of the wing, don’t be too concerned about the condition of the skin on the underside. If you are so inclined, you can also remove the wing bones. They are great for making a wing bone call. However, if this is not your intent, just leave the bone in the wing.

The wing is comprised of three main sections: a meaty segment at the shoulder, the middle, and a smaller segment at the wing tip. You will have to dig around to get all of the meat from between and under the wing bones—and yes, this is necessary. It is extremely important that you do not cut the bases of the feathers that project into the skin. To preserve the wing, inject the tip with liquid preservative and apply borax to any raw sections.

Turkey tail decoy

A nice fan makes for great cover from the keen eye of a turkey. However, you have to make sure that safety is also observed. This hunt was on 200,000 acres of private land.

Once you remove the flesh and apply dry preservative, spread the wing to pose it and let dry. You can carefully place weights, such as books, on the large feathers to secure the wing in position as it stiffens. When you place the weights, leave the incision exposed to aid the drying process.

The wings and feathers will begin to stiffen within the first couple of days. Check it during this time in case an adjustment is required. Within a week, the feathers will become permanently set. If you removed the bones to make calls, replace the bones with a similar support. You can sew or glue a rigid piece of cardboard or a piece of thin wooden dowel to the skin from the underside as a replacement. It is best to wait until the wing is dry before replacing the bone.

There are a host of different uses for turkeys including displays, necklaces, bookends, and just about anything else your imagination can dream up. Each one will be an enduring memory of the hunt too.

Have you ever created a turkey trophy? Tell us about it in the comment section.

 

Like this article? CLICK HERE to get stories like this, useful tips, and valuable resources every other weekend in your e-mail inbox.

The mission of Cheaper Than Dirt!’s blog, “The Shooter’s Log,” is to provide information—not opinions—to our customers and the shooting community. We want you, our readers, to be able to make informed decisions. The information provided here does not represent the views of Cheaper Than Dirt!
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