March 11, 2010

Filed under: Shooting Techniques, Training — Tags: , — CTD Blogger @ 4:38 PM    Delicious Digg Facebook Reddit YahooBuzz

One thing I noticed at the 2010 SHOT show was the immense number of small pocket sized handguns. As concealed carry has grown in legality (and popularity) the demand for these little heaters has also increased dramatically. Smith & Wesson’s Bodyguard line, Ruger’s LCP and LCR, and Kel-Tec’s popular P3AT line all have small pocket sized pistols, and all of these little numbers have triggers that are double action only.

This long heavy trigger is compact, simple and reliable, but it can be difficult for many people to operate accurately. The long pull and heavy trigger weight, relative to a single action trigger, makes negligent discharges less likely by users unfamiliar with the stress of a combat scenario and decreases the chance of an accidental discharge from a foreign object hanging on the trigger when the pistol is carried in a pocket or purse. But these same traits that make the action safe and reliable can make actually firing the handgun more difficult unless the user has practiced with the firearm extensively. The additional force required to pull the trigger can drop the nose of the pistol or otherwise cause the shooter to lose a proper sight picture.

To quickly and accurately use a double action trigger, you first need a proper grip on the handgun and the correct interaction between your finger and the trigger. Without getting into the specifics of a proper handgun grip, your trigger finger should rest on the trigger with only the pad of your fingertip touching the trigger.

Most people who have had at least a minimal amount of training in handgun use are familiar with the phrase “front sight, press.” This of course refers to the action of acquiring a proper sight picture and then smoothly pressing (not pulling) the trigger to the rear. Rather than pulling the trigger with your first joint as one might do when gesturing “come here” with a single finger, with only the pad of your finger contacting the trigger press it straight back. As you press the trigger, focus on keeping a consistent force and speed throughout the press.

Some people say that the first joint of the finger should be used instead of the pad of the finger tip on a heavy double action trigger, but this can cause problems with accuracy. Because of the long arc of a double action trigger, your finger will slide down the trigger face as it is pulled. When using the finger pad, this is not a problem, but if you are using the first joint of the finger tip to press the trigger the motion needed to keep your finger joint in constant contact with the trigger face can cause the pistol to twist. This does not mean that it is wrong to use the first joint of the finger on a double action trigger- don’t misunderstand. In general using the pad is much more accurate, faster and smoother. But heavy triggers and double action triggers with a long arc can be easier to operate using the finger joint. Using the first joint gives you additional leverage that helps operate heavy triggers without dropping the front sight. If you choose to use the first finger joint as opposed to the pad of your finger tip, take care not to “milk” the trigger. Milking or grasping the trigger occurs when using the joint of the finger causes the finger to contact the frame of the gun or allows the entire hand to curl with the trigger finger as part of the motion. For this reason, it is better to learn to use the pad of your finger and, if the trigger pull is too heavy, lighten the trigger or use a different pistol with better ergonomics or a lighter trigger pull.

Just as important as the trigger press is the trigger return and reset. Again, maintaining a smooth and consistent speed and pressure on the trigger is important. Think of the trigger return as your follow through. A good trigger return allows you to setup your next shot quickly and accurately.

Coin balanced on the front sightProperly done, a double action trigger pull will not move the front sights at all. The best method I’ve found to practice using a double action trigger involves balancing a coin on the front sight while pulling the trigger. The goal is to be able to pull the trigger through the full range of motion until the hammer drops (or the pin fires) without dropping the coin. The larger the coin, the more difficult it is to balance it properly. With most front sights it’s fairly easy to balance a dime or penny on the top. Nickels and quarters are more difficult, but as you get better with your double action trigger control you can move to a larger coin.

It doesn’t take much practice to get smooth and consistent when using a double action trigger. If you are unable to work the trigger using the pad of your finger tip, you can use the first joint for better leverage, but be aware that this can have a detrimental effect on accuracy and can build bad habits.

March 10, 2010

Filed under: Defensive Tactics, Guest Posts, Shotguns — Tags: , , — CTD Blogger @ 2:29 PM    Delicious Digg Facebook Reddit YahooBuzz

Today’s Guest Blogger is Carteach0. He’s a teacher and, not surprisingly, his well written posts are incredibly informative. He claims that “He’s just this guy,” but we see a well spoken educator with a wealth of knowledge on firearms and reloading. One of his latest posts covers the use of a 12 gauge pump action shotgun as a home defense firearm.

On the list of firearms held as suitable for home defense, the nearly undisputed king is the 12 gauge pump action shotgun. Whether it’s the unmistakable noise of a round being chambered or the (rightly or wrongly) perceived massive stopping power, the big bore shotgun has a respected place in self defense.

In use since the very beginning of firearms, the shotgun rapidly gained a reputation for bringing down it’s target, whether two legged, four legged, or on wing. When ‘rifles’ did not exist and a single ball hitting it’s target was iffy, a handful of pellets fired from a .75” smoothbore usually got the job done. During the 18th century a coach was often guarded by a man armed with a ‘blunderbuss’, which was nothing more than a short barreled shotgun with the muzzle belled to make loading easier on a bouncing coach seat. From the classic western lawman to today’s patrol car, the shotgun has been a comforting resource to police officers for generations.

The same things that make it suitable for police use make it desirable as a home protection weapon. Heavy firepower over a short range, coupled with an intimidating visual image and ease of operation.

Shotguns can be found in many configurations, but the defensive role is dominated by pump action and semi-automatic 12 gauge guns. Mechanically identical to their hunting brethren, defensive shotguns differ in barrel length, magazine capacity, and sighting hardware.

While a typical hunting shotgun might have twenty eight or thirty inch barrels, this would be too long for easy maneuverability anyplace other than the field. The long barrel that makes easier swinging on a pheasant in flight would prevent effective gun handling in a hallway or small room.For this reason defensive shotguns usually have barrels that are eighteen to twenty inches long.

Hunting shotguns are often limited to three rounds capacity, or maybe five with the ‘plug’ out of the magazine. Defensive shotguns sometimes have a longer magazine tube bringing capacity up to eight or nine rounds. There are even special ‘shorter’ shotgun shells designed to boost the capacity of a shotgun, made just for defensive use. Many shotguns built for home defense also have spare ammunition stored right on the weapon, in special carriers.

While a bird gun might have a ventilated rib with a gold bead at the end, the shorter defensive shotgun more often has a plain barrel with a rifle sight on the end. There is a common misconception that shotguns throw so wide a pattern that aiming is not necessary. Nothing could be farther from the truth, and only a few ‘pointed’ shots at the range will prove this. It’s embarrassing to miss at short range with a shotgun when bowling pins are the target, but it can be disastrous in a home defense situation. Rifle type sights on the shotgun are a helpful aid to aiming accurately.

In this article, a typical 12 gauge pump action shotgun will get a simple conversion to a home defense weapon. In this case, a Remington 870 Express, but any decent quality hunting shotgun can be drafted to house duty with a few changes. While the 870 is worth investing some funds into for a project such as this, it’s possible a decent working 12 gauge can be bought used for well under $200. As long as the basic quality is there, outward finish means nothing. Worn bluing and a scratched stock don’t really matter much in a defensive shotgun. Dependability and usefulness do.

When I was shotgun shopping, the choice was narrowed to the two major suppliers; Remington and Mossberg. I liked the reliability and pricing on both, and a wealth of accessories are available for both. So, what clinched the deal on the Remington? I handled both at the store, and while I was looking over the Mossberg (a turkey gun) the rear sight fell off in my hands. To me, this is not a good sign. If one part I can see is made that cheaply, then what is there I can’t see?

This Remington came to the author as a used hunting shotgun. It’s been carried in the field, and also spent many an evening shooting trap under the lights. The original barrel is twenty eight inches long and is threaded for interchangeable chokes. It has a ventilated rib with a gold bead at the muzzle, and can hold four 2 ¾” shells in its magazine.

As a hunting shotgun it’s dependable and sturdy. Since it’s the cheaper Express model it came with a matte finish and plain wood. That doesn’t affect its usefulness or sturdiness, and it’s still a Remington 870, a shotgun with a long history of service.

As a home defense shotgun, it needed some changes. First and foremost, it must have a shorter barrel. The original was just too long to navigate the hallways and doorways of a house. It’s possible to cut down a shotgun barrel without too much fuss, but there are some factors that must be taken into account. The barrel length cannot legally be made shorter than eighteen inches without an expensive tax stamp issued by the BATFE. Eighteen and a half is usually the shortest a factory barrel comes, and most police shotguns are that length. Citizens have been killed for cutting off that last half inch… don’t risk it.
Once the gun is fitted with a suitably short barrel, what more is required? Many people seem to think any number of gadgets must be bolted, screwed, or Velcroed onto a shotgun before it can be a real defensive weapon. The reality is… simple is better. One need not feel under gunned because their shotgun does not have a vibrating green laser aiming device capable of highlighting the space shuttle in orbit, nor a twenty seven position tactical recoil absorbing stock with optional cup holder. The gun needs to work every time, and with a minimum of fuss.It needs to be maneuverable inside a building. Once that’s achieved, everything else is fluff and something to break or distract. It’s far better to spend the extra cash on ammunition and training time, which is a better investment in self defense.

If the shotgun is one that’s common, then a shorter barrel can usually be found that’s easy to install. Remington sells police length barrels for most of their shotguns, and Mossberg makes defensive barrels for both their guns and the Remington 870. Winchester has ‘Defender’ barrels for the 1300 and 1200 series of shotguns too. For roughly $110 to $150, a new police type barrel can be bought, and installation is a snap.This is usually a better idea than cutting down a premium hunting barrel, unless the shotgun is a cheap used gun with a value little more than the cost of the barrel.

For this build a new Remington police barrel was purchased. It’s a smoothbore with no choke, 18 ½ inches long, and fitted with a bead front sight. The finish is matte to match the Express shotgun it’s going to be mounted on. At $119 out the door, the price was not exorbitant.

Installing the barrel could not be easier. Simply unscrewing the magazine cap is all that’s required, with the action open, and the barrel will pull forward off the shotgun (beware the magazine spring, as it will probably come un-caged with the cap removed). The new barrel is fitted into place and the cap reinstalled. Nothing else needs be done. The original hunting barrel can be cleaned, oiled, and put away for next year’s pheasant season.

While the barrel is being replaced, the magazine spring will likely be removed to get it out of the way. It’s an excellent time to set aside the ‘plug’ that limits the magazine capacity to meet some states hunting regulations. Also, it’s a fine time to install an extended magazine tube if one is desired. For about $45, a machined metal magazine extension can be bought that will give another two, three, or four rounds capacity.

In this build, the added expense was declined, and the original magazine cap reinstalled.

To carry reloads on the shotgun, many companies make ‘side saddle’ shell holders that bolt to the receiver, or even on the butt stock itself.These can hold an additional four to eight rounds in a convenient place for reloading on the move.

In our case, a simple shell holder sleeve was installed on the butt stock. Made by Uncle Mikes, it holds five shotgun shells securely in elastic loops. Since it’s of neoprene construction it tends to stick to the stock, and won’t slide around during movement. That’s important, and worth a few extra dollars. At $12, it’s an inexpensive answer to the issue of carrying extra ammunition.

Whether it’s a side saddle or an elastic shell holder such as this, strong consideration should be given to carrying reloads on the weapon. Even with the longest magazine tube the shotgun will hold only eight or nine rounds at the most. In the event the long gun is used in home defense the user is almost surely going to be under pressure and rushed. Grabbing extra ammo can’t be counted on. The fight will be fought with what’s on the gun. A ready reload mounted on the shotgun is the way to go.

The Remington 870 Express usually comes with swivels already installed for a sling. This is something to be considered. Combat slings in a dozen formats can be had, and our troops use them every day. That said… do we need a sling on a home defense shotgun?

A sling is for carrying a weapon. In a home situation the shotgun will be carried in the hands, not on the shoulder. Unless there is property to be patrolled, or a guard post to be maintained, a sling just isn’t needed. On the other hand, a sling can be a problem when moving through a building. It catches on things, and is a loose grab point for an opponent to use in taking the weapon for themselves.

Sling mounting points are not a bad idea; just for the thin chance a sling would be helpful. In a situation such as hurricane Katrina when long watches might be held over house and home to deter looting, the ability to sling the shotgun could save fatigue.

There are slings which double as bandoleers, holding an extra twenty or thirty shells in elastic loops. While they might appear pretty menacing, accurately firing a weapon with five pounds swinging loosely from it can be difficult. If there is a need to carry that much extra ammunition there are excellent cross shoulder bandoleers available, and they won’t get in the way of using the weapon.

A home defense shotgun does not need to be fancy, just dependable and suited to the job. Once the ‘riot gun’ is put together or bought, one more thing needs to happen and that is practice. Like any other tool, a shotgun won’t use itself. Practice is demanded, just as with any other weapon for self defense. Range time getting used to the recoil, noise, reloading, and aiming of the shotgun is central to its effective use. Even if it’s just a box of shells a month, the practice needs to happen.

Converting this shotgun from faithful hunter to reliable defender cost less than $140. Considering the return on investment, it might be the best way possible to spend money on home security. Its value won’t go down, and in the event it must be used every penny will be well spent.

In upcoming pieces we’ll gut some shotgun shells and look closely at what is found, and discover how they perform on various targets. We’ll also look at some simple drills for using a shotgun defensively.

March 9, 2010

Filed under: Firearms — CTD Blogger @ 4:18 PM    Delicious Digg Facebook Reddit YahooBuzz

Via Says Uncle and the Firing Pin Journal we find that there’s a popular debate that’s been circulating throughout the gun-blogger community concerning the perfect three gun combination. Discussions such as these have been around as long as there have been choices in personal defensive weapons. Much like the 1911/Glock or AK/AR debates, there is never a clearly decisive winner. I’m sure as far back as the stone age cavemen were arguing whether flint or obsidian made better arrowheads. Of course, I’m still going to join in the fray and voice this writer’s opinion.

Given that you could have only one of each, what one pistol, shotgun, and rifle would you choose? For the purposes of this exercise, we’re choosing them for self defense. Naturally then, I’m inclined to choose firearms that are versatile and for which ammunition is inexpensive and widely available, and which function more or less in nearly any condition.

Glock 19 Some people maintain that the Glock 19 is too big to be a defensive handgun, but for the purposes of this exercise we’re not limited to concealed carry. The Glock 19 is favored by law enforcement agencies throughout the world as a defensive weapon. Despite the fact that it is usually best worn as an open carry weapon, I feel it fits the bill nicely.

Remington 870 Express Synthetic When it comes to shotguns, the Remington 870 line is pretty much the standard by which all other pump-action shotguns are judged. Being a pump action, it will digest nearly any 12 gauge round with zero complaints. While not as fast as a semiautomatic shotgun, the increased reliability of the 870 makes it a good selection.

PTR 91 Many people would choose an AR or AK platform rifle as a primary defensive carbine. While 7.62×51 (.308 Winchester) ammunition is more expensive than either 5.56 or 7.62×39, I prefer something a bit larger and chose the PTR 91. The lack of a gas system means that it will operate in nearly any conditions and digest almost any 7.62 NATO or .308 Winchester load.

Is this the perfect combination? Honestly, I’m not convinced such a thing exists. Weapons for personal defense are, by their very nature, a personal choice. Individual ergonomics, budget, preferences and training play heavily into such choices.

March 5, 2010

Filed under: GPS — Tags: — CTD Blogger @ 6:16 PM    Delicious Digg Facebook Reddit YahooBuzz

Hunting seasons are generally pretty short, but that’s no reason that you can’t go out into the woods and have fun the rest of the year. In addition to land maintenance, scouting and practicing your woodcraft skills, there is a relatively new form of outdoor activity that combines the social aspect of the internet with the fun of adventuring through the woods. Of course, I’m talking about the GPS based sport known as Geocaching.

GPS devices aren’t just for navigating your car. As the price of a handheld GPS unit continues to fall, geocaching is rapidly becoming one of the more popular outdoor sports, and nearly anyone can participate in it. Geocaching involves hunting for caches that have been hidden by other geocachers in interesting or scenic locations. For the most part, it’s not a competition, though some participants like to be the “First-to-Find” newly hidden geocaches. It’s an activity that is suitable for all ages, and the only equipment required to participate is a GPS unit and internet access.

Garmin RinoInternet access is necessary to reach the geocaching.com website. You can register for free at geocaching.com where you will be able to locate the coordinates for caches near you or around your destination and download them to your computer or GPS device.

The other thing you’ll need is, of course, a handheld GPS unit. Almost any GPS device will work, and there are many to choose from. The Garmin eTrex H model is a great entry level GPS unit. It’s waterproof, has a long 22 hour battery life, and is incredibly durable. It doesn’t have all the nifty bells and whistles of the more expensive models, but it does have all you need to effectively find your way. Of course, there are nicer units out there. The Garmin Rino GPS unit combines GMRS or FRS radios with a very advanced GPS unit. With the Rino, you can team up with other people using similar units and share your location on the map display. Of course, even if your buddy doesn’t have a Rino device, you can still use the radio feature with any FRS or GMRS compatible radio system.

Not all caches are created equal. Some are located in remote locations that have rough terrain and require searchers to hike miles over rough terrain in order to locate the cache, while others are easy to find in urban locations. There are probably dozens of geocaches within a couple of miles from your own home! Geocaching.com recommends carrying a small printout that describes geocaching when searching for a cache in a highly trafficked area, just in case local authorities find your activity suspicious.

Geocaching is also a fantastic way to work on your orienteering skills and practice using a map and compass. GPS units are fantastic devices, but they still require batteries, a clear view of the sky and a functional satellite network in order to work properly. Lose any one of these three things and you’re stuck using a traditional map and compass. I like to use geocaching as an opportunity to improve my skills navigating using a map and compass alone. With a USGS topographical map you can plot the approximate location of the cache and plan your route into the area using basic orienteering skills and then utilize the GPS unit to zero in on the precise location.

So dust off those hiking boots, load up the day pack and head out! Whether you’re just out enjoying nature, or hunting a well hidden geocache, a handheld GPS unit is a great little tool to have when you’re out in the field.

March 4, 2010

Filed under: E-Postal Matches — Tags: — CTD Blogger @ 1:48 PM    Delicious Digg Facebook Reddit YahooBuzz

Cheaper Than Dirt! has teamed up with Mr. Completely to organize the 2010 E-Postal match season. As part of this years series of E-Postal matches, we’re hosting a season long Zombie Shoot.

Zombie artwork licensed under Creative Commons License courtesy of BenBlogged.comThe rules are simple: download the target, eliminate the Zombies, and don’t shoot the humans! There are four Zombies on the target, and two uninfected humans caught up in the foray. Eliminate the Zombies with three shots anywhere on the body, or one shot to the grey area for a clean head shot.

Print out your target on a regular 8.5×11 sheet of paper. But be warned: this target is NOT as easy as it looks! Scoring is based off of the number of shots you need to clear the targets. Each shot is one point, so the best score you can make is 4 points. Hit a human, and you’ll be penalized with two extra points on top of the one point for the shot you already fired. Based off of our testing, an average score is between 15 and 30 points.

Click HERE to download the .PDF of the target

The distance for this target is 25 feet or 10 yards, whichever is available at your range.

CLASS ONE: Any rimfire handgun with no more than a 12″ barrel, iron sights.

CLASS TWO: Any rimfire handgun with no more than a 12″ barrel, optic sights, no magnification.

CLASS THREE: Any centerfire (non-revolver) handgun with no more than a 12″ barrel, iron sights.

CLASS FOUR: Any centerfire (non-revolver) handgun with no more than a 12″ barrel, optic sights, no magnification.

CLASS FIVE: Any revolver with no more than a 12″ barrel, iron sights.

CLASS SIX: Any revolver with no more than a 12″ barrel, optic sights, no magnification.

CLASS SEVEN: Any handgun with no more than a 14″ barrel, any sights, scopes, laser, whatever. This class is primarily for target pistols.

CLASS EIGHT: Centerfire rifle with any optic: minimum range, 100 yards

CLASS NINE: Centerfire rifle with iron sights: minimum range, 50 yards

CLASS TEN: Rimfire rifle with any optic: minimum range, 50 yards

CLASS ELEVEN: Rimfire rifle with iron sights: minimum range, 30 yards

If you have something interesting to shoot that doesn’t quite fit in the above classes, go ahead and enter anyway.

DISTANCE
: 25 feet, or Ten yards, which ever is available at your range. Rifle classes have their own minimum distance. If you can successfully clear the target with four shots, keep adding distance until you can no longer do so. Let’s see who can go the farthest!

SHOOTING POSITION: Standing, un-supported off-hand, one or two hands on gun permitted. Rifles may be shot supported from a bench, prone, or any other position. Machine rests are not allowed: we’re challenging you, not your gun!

SCORING: In each class you are allowed as many shots as it takes to clear the target. Eliminate the Zombies with three shots anywhere on the body, or one shot to the grey area for a clean head shot. Each shot can only be counted once. Shots touching two zombies only count as a hit on one of them, you may decide which Zombie you would like it to count as a hit on. Any shot touching a Zombie AND a human counts as a hit on the human and is penalized accordingly. The target has a perfect score of 4.

Ties will be decided based on the highest number of hits solidly in the headshot zone and not touching the edges.

For rifle classes, bonuses will be awarded for successful engagements at longer distances.

Mark your score on each target with a legible pen, along with the class and type of gun used. Don’t write your name on the target, only the name you want to appear in the results, as your target may get posted on the internet.

STRATEGY: Are you better off to risk trying for the head shot, and risk missing it, or should you play it safe and engage the Zombies with more shots to the center of mass?

MULTIPLE ENTRIES: You can enter more than once, in fact, it is encouraged. Shoot everything you own, and everything you can borrow! Take a buddy to the range, get him entered, then borrow his gun and enter that! The only restriction is that you can only enter once for any given gun, in any individual Class. You can shoot the target as many times as you like, and send in the best one.

Different calibers in the same gun count as one gun. For example, .38SPL and .357MAG are considered as one, as would be .44SPL and .44MAG. Different guns of the same caliber and barrel length can be entered.

PRIZES: Nope, it’s just for the fun of it and the bragging rights! HOWEVER, there WILL be a random drawing of all the entries to win a $50 Gift Certificate from Cheaper Than Dirt.

SUBMITTING YOUR ENTRY: Take a digital photo of, (or scan) your targets, and email the picture, along with:

1. Your score.

2. The name you want used when we post the results.

3. Gun description – Brand, model, semi-auto, revolver, black powder, caliber, barrel length, and type of sights

4. Class: Class One, Two, Three, four, five, six, or seven.

5. Anything interesting or unique about your entry that other shooters might enjoy hearing about.

Email it all to daniels@cheaperthandirt.com, or post it as a reply to this post so everyone can see how well you did!

If you can’t scan or send target pictures, send everything else to me in an email, and we’ll figure something out.

The rules are subject to revision as needed, should the need arise.

All entries must be received by Midnight on Monday, November 29th, 2010, and results will be posted within seven days, or less.

If you have any questions, leave the question in the comments to this post, or send me an email, or both.

March 3, 2010

Filed under: Ammunition, Military Surplus — Tags: , — CTD Blogger @ 6:39 PM    Delicious Digg Facebook Reddit YahooBuzz

Ammunition availability is something that all experienced shooters consider when purchasing a new firearm. For many shooters, choosing a firearm chambered in a caliber identical or nearly identical to a common military caliber is an obvious choice. This is because there is often an abundance of military surplus rounds available on the civilian market, making ammunition cheaper as well as easier to find. The fact that a given caliber had previously been chosen by the military for use in their weapons means that bullets, brass, and other components used to manufacture the round will often be more readily available to the civilian market. What’s more, it is not unusual for firearm manufacturers to release civilian legal versions of their military arms that are chambered in the same caliber, further increasing demand and production of ammunition in that caliber by commercial manufacturers.

What do you need to look for and keep in mind when purchasing military surplus ammunition?

First, be aware that almost all military surplus ammunition will be ball or FMJ (full metal jacket) ammunition. The Hague Convention agreement of July 29 1899 stipulates that signatories to the agreement “agree to abstain from the use of bullets which expand or flatten easily in the human body, such as bullets with a hard envelope which does not entirely cover the core, or is pierced with incisions.” For this reason, The United States and all other participants in the treaty agreed not to use any form of hollow point or other expanding ammunition. Military surplus ball ammunition is perfectly fine for target practice and training, but is not particularly effective nor is it recommended for hunting or personal defense.

Military surplus ammunition is very often loaded to different pressures than commercial ammunition in the same caliber. Commercial 9mm (9×19) ammunition is much less powerful than 9mm ammunition loaded to military specifications. By contrast, the 7.62 NATO, often used interchangeably with .308 Winchester, is actually loaded to a lower pressure (12,000 psi less) than the civilian .308 version that has become popular as a hunting round.

Other military calibers are loaded to similar pressures as their commercial counterparts, but critical differences in case dimensions can prove problematic. Take the well known 5.56mm NATO round. This is commonly called a .223 round, but there are critical dimensional differences between the .223 and 5.56mm rounds that can be catastrophic in certain circumstances. Dimensional differences in the two rounds as well as the resulting high pressures in the wrong chamber make the 5.56mm cartridge potentially dangerous to shoot in a rifle chambered in .223. The .223 round on the other hand may be safely fired in any rifle chambered for 5.56mm NATO. The .308 Winchester and 7.62 NATO cartridges also have dimensional differences, primarily with regard to headspacing, but these differences make firing .308 Win in a rifle chambered for 7.62 NATO inadvisable instead of vice versa like the 5.56/.223 situation. Still, modern shooters should be aware of this since their older M1A rifles are not necessarily designed for the higher pressures of the .308 Winchester round. That being said, I’m not aware any of older rifles chambered in 7.62 NATO failing due to the use of modern .308 Winchester cartridges.

Surplus ammunition is often labeled by paint that is applied to the tips of the bullet. Red or orange tipped ammunition generally indicates that the ammunition is loaded with tracer bullets that glow while in flight. Green tipped ammunition, usually found on surplus 5.56mm NATO ammunition, generally indicates that the bullet has a steel penetrator core. Black tipped NATO ammunition usually means that the ammunition is armor piercing. Silver or aluminum tipped ammunition indicates that the round is armor piercing and incendiary when found on the .50 BMG round. This should not be confused with silver tipped surplus 7.62×54R ammunition, which is used to designate light ball ammo. .50 BMG that is blue tipped is incendiary but not armor piercing. There are a number of other paint designations for various specialty rounds, but those listed above are the most common ones found military surplus bullets. Bullets with no paint markings are usually just full metal jacketed lead core ball ammunition.

Some older mil-surp ammo, especially ammunition from old ComBloc states is corrosive. Corrosive ammunition functions fine in modern arms, but care must be taken to clean firearms after shooting corrosive ammunition in order to remove corrosive salts that can quickly damage the bore and action of a gun. For more information on corrosive ammunition and how to clean it, see our article located here. Some people express concern at shooting ammunition that has been stored on a shelf for some 40 years or more. But the fact is, military ammunition is manufactured to last. Provided it is not submerged in water or coated with oil for an extended period of time, 40 year old surplus ammunition will function just as well as the day it rolled out of the factory. With regards to corrosive ammunition, there’s nothing to be concerned about there either. The corrosive salts that can damage your gun have no effect on the actual ammo cartridge itself. The corrosive components are in the primer of the round and are not released until the round is fired. Some military surplus ammunition may have discoloration on the bullet or brass but this is not something to be concerned about either.

Military surplus ammunition is not suitable for all firearms. But if you have a plinker or old surplus rifle that you’re looking for cheap and abundant ammunition for, it’s hard to go wrong with mil-surp ammo.

March 2, 2010

Filed under: Legal Issues — Tags: — CTD Blogger @ 3:20 PM    Delicious Digg Facebook Reddit YahooBuzz

The Supreme Court case of McDonald, et al., v. Chicago transcript has been made public (*.pdf). You can download the entire transcript at that link.

Click below the fold to view the entire transcript in plain text instead of a .PDF format.

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Filed under: Legal Issues — Tags: — CTD Blogger @ 12:06 PM    Delicious Digg Facebook Reddit YahooBuzz

The Supreme Court today heard oral arguments from Alan Gura representing The Second Amendment Foundation, the NRA, and of course the plaintiff Otis McDonald in a groundbreaking Supreme Court case on the right to own a handgun. The city of Chicago restricts residents’ right to own a handgun, arguing that the recently decided Heller case does not apply to the States or other local governments. Gura argues for the plaintiff that the Heller decision should be applied through the 14th Amendment’s “privileges and immunities” clause, but the court appeared reluctant to accept this argument. They seemed much more amenable to incorporate the 2nd Amendment through the less complex “due process” guarantee of the 14nd Amendment. Existing Supreme Court precedent set in the Slaughterhouse case makes incorporation through the “privileges and immunities” clause troublesome, as any new decision using this argument would by necessity reverse Slaughterhouse.

SCOTUS Blog has a nice summary of today’s arguments.

The Supreme Court on Tuesday seemed poised to require state and local governments to obey the Second Amendment guarantee of a personal right to a gun, but with perhaps considerable authority to regulate that right. The dominant sentiment on the Court was to extend the Amendment beyond the federal level, based on the 14th Amendment’s guarantee of “due process,” since doing so through another part of the 14th Amendment would raise too many questions about what other rights might emerge.

When the Justices cast their first vote after starting later this week to discuss where to go from here, it appeared that the focus of debate will be how extensive a “right to keep and bear arms” should be spelled out: would it be only some “core right” to have a gun for personal safety, or would it include every variation of that right that could emerge in the future as courts decide specific cases? The liberal wing of the Court appeared to be making a determined effort to hold the expanded Amendment in check, but even the conservatives open to applying the Second Amendment to states, counties and cities seemed ready to concede some — but perhaps fewer — limitations.

Click here to read a full summary from SCOTUS Blog

Filed under: E-Postal Matches, Guest Posts — Tags: , — CTD Blogger @ 10:34 AM    Delicious Digg Facebook Reddit YahooBuzz

Mr. Completely, host of the 2010 E-Postal Season is also our host for the first match of the year, Seein’ Stars.

It’s time for the monthly e-Postal matches to get underway, and we’re starting out the series with a version of a match from a few years ago but with some slightly different rules. The name of the new match is “Seein’ Stars”, and I’m sure some of us will be “Seein’ Stars” long after shooting the match! This match is a real challenge as it’s relatively easy to do fairly well, but nearly impossible to max the score.

This month we have seven classes, so there’s a place for just about everything. It’s time to drag out all those handguns that have been unused all Winter and limber ‘em up!

TARGET: The same target is used in all classes. The target can be downloaded from here:
Seein’ Stars Target
It is an Adobe Acrobat PDF file. When you print it out, the biggest star should measure 4″ inches across. If you print it out and end up with something different, try un-checking “fit to page” in the print settings.

CLASS ONE: Any rimfire handgun with no more than a 12″ barrel, iron sights.

CLASS TWO: Any rimfire handgun with no more than a 12″ barrel, optic sights, no magnification.

CLASS THREE: Any centerfire (non-revolver) handgun with no more than a 12″ barrel, iron sights.

CLASS FOUR: Any centerfire (non-revolver) handgun with no more than a 12″ barrel, optic sights, no magnification.

CLASS FIVE: Any revolver with no more than a 12″ barrel, iron sights.

CLASS SIX: Any revolver with no more than a 12″ barrel, optic sights, no magnification.

CLASS SEVEN: Any handgun with no more than a 14″ barrel, any sights, scopes, laser, whatever. This class is primarily for target pistols.

If you have something interesting to shoot that doesn’t quite fit in the above classes, go ahead and enter anyway.

DISTANCE : 25 feet, or Ten yards, which ever is available at your range.

SHOOTING POSITION: Standing, un-supported, off-hand, one or two hands on gun permitted.

SCORING: In each class you are allowed ten shots at the target. Each star can only be counted once, no matter how many times you shoot it. Touching the black counts as a hit. The target has a perfect score of 320.

Ties will be decided based on the highest number of hits solidly in the black and not touching the edges.

Mark your score on each target with a legible pen, along with the class and type of gun used. Don’t write your name on the target, only the name you want to appear in the results, as your target may get posted on Mr. Completely.

STRATEGY: Are you better off to risk trying for the fifty point star, and risk missing it, or should you play it safe and be sure to get the easier ones of lower value?

MULTIPLE ENTRIES: You can enter more than once, in fact, it is encouraged. Shoot everything you own, and everything you can borrow! Take a buddy to the range, get him entered, then borrow his gun and enter that! The only restriction is that you can only enter once for any given gun, in any individual Class. You can shoot the target as many times as you like, and send in the best one.

Different calibers in the same gun count as one gun. For example, .38SPL and .357MAG are considered as one, as would be .44SPL and .44MAG. Different guns of the same caliber and barrel length can be entered.

PRIZES: Nope, it’s just for the fun of it and the bragging rights! HOWEVER, there WILL be a random drawing of all the entries to win a $50 Gift Certificate from Cheaper Than Dirt. (Very cool….)

SUBMITTING YOUR ENTRY: Take a digital photo of, (or scan) your targets, and email the picture, along with:

1. Your score.

2. The name you want used when we post the results.

3. Gun description – Brand, model, semi-auto, revolver, black powder, caliber, barrel length, and type of sights

4. Class: Class One, Two, Three, four, five, six, or seven.

5. Anything interesting or unique about your entry that other shooters might enjoy hearing about.

Email it all to b l o g (at) w h i d b e y (dot) c o m

If you can’t scan or send target pictures, send everything else to me in an email, and we’ll arrange for either fax or snail mail for the targets.

The rules are subject to revision as needed, should the need arise.

All entries must be received by Midnight on Monday, March 29th, and results will be posted within seven days, or less.

If you have any questions, leave the question in the comments to this post, or send me an email, or both.

Have fun!!

Mr. Completely makes his home on Whidbey Island in Northwest Washington with his wife and fellow blogger, KeeWee, and their rabbit “Bun”. He organizes the annual Gun Blogger Rendezvous in Reno, Nevada, and also runs regular e-postal matches coordinated with other bloggers.

February 26, 2010

Filed under: Preparedness, Survival — Tags: , — CTD Blogger @ 11:29 AM    Delicious Digg Facebook Reddit YahooBuzz

The EPA reports that 90% of the world’s fresh water supply is contaminated. According to the World Health Organization, 80% of all travel diseases are caused from contaminated water. Tap water, surface water (surface water is any standing or flowing body of water.), ice cubes and even bottled water can all harbor unsafe bacteria, viruses, protozoans and agricultural chemicals. By consuming even the smallest drop of contaminated water, you can get Hepatitis A, E-coli, salmonella, cholera and many other diseases and sicknesses. Most water contaminates come from human and animal waste. They are spread by rain and run-off in surface water.

During a natural disaster, tap water may become undrinkable, and when out backpacking, camping or hiking, it would be unwise to trust any water you come across, even if it looks crystal clear. Water purification will filter out chemicals, contaminants and pollutants from a water source, thus allowing you to drink the water that you find.

There are a number of ways you can purify and sanitize your water. Boiling removes micro-organisms, but chemicals will remain in the water. If you are at sea level, boil water for 5 minutes. If you are at 4,000 meters above sea level, you must boil your water for 20 minutes to remove the bacteria. Remember that even the clearest water, such as in a mountain stream, can still hold bacteria, viruses and chemicals. Traces of agricultural chemical have even been found in mountain streams.

Sanitizing water with the use of chemicals removes micro-organisms. Our cities’ water supplies are sanitized using chemicals and mineral additives. Chemicals work best in clearer water. Typical chemicals used are chlorine gas, chlorine, chlorine dioxide, iodine, ozone, and silver. Ultraviolet light is used in a final stage to ensure that any microorganisms which survive the chemical process are killed. Household bleach in proper amounts can even be used to sanitize water at home. Chlorine is the most used chemical to get rid of water pollutants. Sanitizing can also come in the form of chlorine dioxide tablets, which actually use oxygen, not chlorine, to clean water.
Katadyn’s Micropur MP1 purification tablets use chlorine dioxide which is effective against viruses, bacteria, Giardia and Cryptosporidium. One tablet will purify one quart of water. Aquamira also has a water purification tablet. One tablet will treat one liter of water. It also uses chlorine dioxide. These tablets are good for light hiking, hunting, fishing, emergency kits, foreign travel and backcountry adventures.

Filtration systems use ceramics, membranes, glass fibers and/or plastics to filter water. The filters are based on pore size which is the opening size of the holes in the filter. When looking to purchase a microfiltiration system, look for ones that have a rating of 0.3 microns or lower or which use a reverse osmosis membrane system. Katadyn’s Pocket Microfilter Endurance incorporates a hose and pump system that fills your water bottle straight from the water source. It utilizes a 0.2 micron depth silver-impregnated ceramic filter and is a compact size. The Pocket microfilter is good for camping, hiking and traveling. Also using a pump and hose system is Katadyn’s Vario filtration system. The Vario is adjustable for different water conditions and has 3 filter levels: glass fiber, a ceramic pre-filter and active charcoal. It produces two liters of drinking water per minute. This is a good versatile choice for all outside activities and for your emergency pack. Katadyn’s Base Camp is best used for planned camping trips or for at-home natural disaster emergencies. It holds 2.5 gallons of water and uses a 0.3 micron glass-fiber filter. Simply fill it up from your water source and hang it up, where a hose is used to dispense the filtered water.

Activated carbon or activated charcoal is a very porous substance. In the water-filtration process, the fine granules absorb contaminants and pollutants. Activated carbon/charcoal is tasteless, odorless and non-toxic. The Frontier Filter from Aquamira is a necessity for your emergency and bug-out packs. This filter allows you to drink through a straw directly from the water source. It uses activated carbon and a filter and removes 99.9% of Cryptosporidium and Giardia bacteria such as E-coli. It will filter up to 20 gallons of water before you need to replace it.

Some systems use a combination of various techniques to purify water. The Exstream Purifier water bottle by Katadyn is best for short trips, hiking, biking, camping, or your emergency pack. It is a 26 oz. water bottle with a built-in filter. It uses iodine, activated carbon and a 1.0 micron plastic membrane filter. Aquamira also makes a water bottle filter that holds 22 oz. of water. It utilizes a microbiological filter and activated carbon to remove contaminants.

When picking water to purify, it is best to choose flowing water as opposed to standing/stagnant water. If you can find a water source that is odorless, clearer, rather than cloudy, and has little floating debris in it, that should be your first choice. But you can still use water that is none of these, and sometimes you will not have a choice. If water is really dirty, let it settle in a big pot or bowl first or use a bandana, cloth or coffee filter to pre-filter out large pieces of sediment. When purifying water, it is best to use a combination of a filter method and a purification tablet.

We all know that traveling overseas can strike us with a case of Montezuma’s Revenge, but even clear, colorless and odorless water can harbor pollutants. Most of us trust our city’s tap water, but natural disasters such as floods, tornados, land slides and other disasters can taint city water. Whether you are traveling, hiking, camping or preparing your emergency pack, purifying water should be one of your first priorities.

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